Refined Olive Oil vs. Quality Extra Virgin Olive Oil in Culinary Applications

Those with a limited scope of experience or access to quality extra virgin olive oil typically make broad and therefore ignorant statements.  Often, these statements come from individuals who maintain high visibility and are " industry professionals", cookbook authors, or chefs.  These are often the same folk who champion the tired mantra that extra virgin olive oil can never be heated or cooked with.   

The fact remains that delicate, or what we refer to as “sweet” premium quality extra virgin olive oil can and should be used in dessert recipes designed to contain "olive oil" and in some cases can even replace other types of fats.  There are even some instances where a throaty, robust extra virgin olive oil may be selected for a particular dessert recipe to great effect.  Choosing the right extra virgin olive oil for any olive oil-based dessert is made easier when there is a broad selection of fresh, premium quality extra virgin olive oil to choose from.  The flavor and intensity range offered by such selection will help identify the right extra virgin olive oil for a particular application.  Those without access to such a selection, or who are faced with an overabundance of poor quality extra virgin may default to using flavorless, odorless refined olive oil as a stand in.  After all, the typical defects of rancidity and fustiness found in most supermarket and retail products labeled as extra virgin olive oil tend to be more pronounced when used in delicate desserts and applications.     

However, if a flavorless, odorless refined fat such as "pure" or refined olive oil is called for in any culinary application, it begs the pragmatic question, why not just opt for a much less costly refined oil that is similarly flavorless and odorless?  In fact, I challenge the reasoning behind using pure olive oil in any culinary capacity, as I can list several other refined vegetable/seed oils that outperform it where health benefit, cost, and functionality are concerned.  It is common knowledge that in the refining process, olive oil is stripped of the basic characteristics (flavor, aroma, and phenols) which are precisely what are extolled in good quality extra virgin olive oil.  And in a side by side blind taste test between refined olive oil, corn, soy, or canola oil, it would be hard to differentiate the "pure" refined olive oil from the others. 

Furthermore, refined olive oil contributes the same amount of calories tablespoon by tablespoon as canola, peanut, safflower, or soybean oil etc. without contributing precious antioxidants.  So, to summarize, if we are looking to cook or bake, be it a sweet or savory application, and want no flavor or antioxidants to be imparted from the oil chosen, then we should look to lower cost safflower, sunflower, rice bran, or grape seed oil – not costly refined olive oil.   If we are looking for flavor and health benefit, then fresh, premium extra virgin olive oil should be used exclusively.

Tomato, Sweet Pepper, & Onion Confit

Ingredients
1 1/2 pounds small whole sweet tomatoes such as cherry or grape
1 large red onion, sliced thin
1 red bell pepper or several smaller sweet red peppers such as Marconi, sliced thin or halved if smaller
8 large garlic cloves
1 - 2" sprig fresh rosemary, leaves only, stem discarded (optional)
1/2 cup extrememly fresh, herbaceous-green 300+ polyhenol, >.2 FFA, 80+ Oleic Acid extra virgin olive oil such as Ultra Premium Leccino, or Ultra Premium  Frantoio
1/3 cup crisp, good quality white wine
1 tablespoon Traditional Balsamic Condimento
2 teaspoons sea salt or kosher salt
Fresh ground pepper to taste

Directions
Adjust rack to middle of oven, and preheat to 300.

In a medium roasting pan (9"x13") or a 12" oven safe skillet, combine the first five ingredients.  Whisk the wine, balsamic, and olive oil together, drizzle over the vegetables and toss to combine.  Season with salt and pepper. 

Place the pan on the middle rack in the oven, uncovered, and allow the vegetables to cook slowly, stirring only a few times during the process, being careful not to break the tomatoes.  Slow roast for 4 - 4 1/2 hours.

The resulting confit, or tomato "jam" can be used to dress pasta, slather on crusty bread, or as an accompaniment to slow roasted meats or poultry.

Cranberry-Pear Balsamic Glazed Butternut Squash with Rosemary

Extra large photo for your viewing pleasure.

Cranberry-Pear Glazed Butternut Squash With Rosemary

1 1/2 - 2 pound butternut squash peeled, seeded and diced in to 1" pieces (about 3 cups)

1/3 cup cranberry-pear white balsamic

1 tablespoon super fresh, "sweet" fruity olive oil such as  Hojiblanca or Arbequina

3" sprig fresh rosemary, leaves stripped from stem and roughly chopped

Sea salt & fresh cracked pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 375.  

In a large bowl whisk the olive oil and balsamic together until thoroughly combined.  Add the rosemary and squash and toss to coat and combine evenly. 

In a large roasting pan lined with parchment, arrange the squash in a single layer, drizzling with any remaining marinade.  Sprinkle liberally with sea salt and fresh ground pepper.

Roast the squash for 30-35 minutes, stirring a few times until golden brown and caramelized.  Adjust seasoning and serve.  

Caprese Salad with Homemade Mozzarella Fresca, Ultra Premium Coratina & Oregano Infused Balsamic

Well, you don't need to make your own mozzarella fresca, but it's super duper easy, fun, and I can't emphasize exactly how mouth watering fresh, homemade mozzarella is when drizzled with a bright, peppery herbaceous extra virgin olive oil such as Ultra Premium Coratina. 

Whether you make your own mozzarella fresca or buy it from the market, this fantastic dish is the perfect showcase for the last heirloom tomatoes of the season paired with a superbly fresh, dazzlingly peppery extra virgin olive oil.

Caprese Salad with Coratina & Oregano White Balsamic
1 pound of ripe, preferably heirloom tomatoes, sliced thin
1/3 cup peppery, fresh green extra virgin olive oil such as Ultra Premium Coratina
1/4 cup oregano infused white balsamic
2 tablespoons chiffonade cut basil
8 oz. homemade (see recipe below) or store bough mozzarella fresca, drained
sea salt and cracked pepper to taste

Arranged sliced tomatoes on a plate.  Sprinkle with salt and pepper.  Whisk balsamic and extra virgin olive oil together.  Place a slice of mozzarella on each slice of tomato and sprinkle with basil chiffonade.  Drizzle with the vinaigrette and serve. 

Mozzarella Fresca
1 gallon fresh, local, organic if possible, whole milk - not ultra pasteurized!
1 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt
1 1/2 teaspoons tartaric acid or citric acid
1/4 teaspoon liquid rennet, found here:  New England Cheesemaking
1 1/4 cups cold, fresh filtered or bottled water

Additional tools needed:

cheesecloth and a thermometer

Mix the tartaric acid with one cup of filtered water and add to the cold milk.  Add the milk to a clean 8+ quart sterilized pot set over medium heat.  Bring the milk to exactly 88 degrees, while stirring frequently.  Mix the rennet with the remaining 1/4 cup of cool water and add to the heated milk.  Mix  the milk continuously for a minute.

Allow the curds to sit undisturbed for 15 minutes until set to the consistency of soft jello.  Use a long knife that reaches to the bottom of the pot and cut a 1" cross thatch pattern in the curds as shown here:

Line a large colander with cheesecloth and gently ladle the curds in to it.  If desired you can retain the liquid why and use it for making baking bread, milkshakes, or just drinking as it is very nutritious and delicious.

Once the curds have drained for 2 minutes, place them in a microwave proof bowl and heat them for 30 seconds. They will be very hot so you may want to use gloves at this stage. Salt the curds with sea salt and then knead them until a smooth mass begins to form. Drain off any extra whey that the curds give off, and repeat the heating one to two more times until you have formed a shiny smooth ball of mozzarella like this:

Place this ball (which should weigh approximately 1 pound) in a bowl of cold lightly salted water until completely cool and then it will be ready to use immediately.  If not using right away, store it submerged, and refrigerated in lightly salted water in a sealed container until ready to use.  Use within four days, although fresher is better!